TimeTexas

So with the new lens which I'm not very good at yet, I'm working on some wrist shots.

Really digging this new tan beaver tail strap from @artifexleather. Looks so good with the blue on this anOrdain I took the anOrdain of my vintage Japanese bracelet which I love that combo. I also realize this isn't letting me tag photos. Need to look into that.

Beauty man!

https://about-timepieces.com/oligo-blue-brown-and-black-watches-review/ Many watch brands try to peak interest by introducing unorthodox case designs and extravagant movement complications; however, Oligo have decided to do the complete opposite. Founded only one year ago, in February 2022, Oligo watches are based and assembled in Geneva, manufacturing mechanical watches that are made using local suppliers and with a high respect to the environment, all by design. Headed up by a passionate Geneva born watchmaker, who is supported by a wide network of designers, creators and local suppliers. Olivier Gaud is the main behind Oligo; his dream of a minimalist designed watch with floating hands, has been brought to life.

Thanks Mat! I do love the watch and the case design is fantastic. Having this now I'm definitely interested in the D'Arc Matter. Certainly isn't as unique, but its such a different feeling. Same case, but the watch is just incredibly clean and slick where as you said, this is like art on the wrist. Completely different watches and I don't know what their plan is for making the D'Arc Matter available again. I may have to look at if so. In the meantime, it sounds like they have some really exciting stuff in the pipeline for later this year. No doubt it will be interesting. The size thing isn't an issue on my 18cm wrist. In fact, its perfect. I was just surprised that the website had 38-39mm. If I hadn't seen that I wouldn't have even mentioned it. But since people don't get an opportunity to see these in person before they order them (for the most part), I felt it was important to mention. I understand why the rubber strap has to extend, but I do wonder if it the stiff portion of the strap could be shortened slightly just 2-3mm on each side, so that the strap would start to wrap around the wrist a little earlier.

So its interesting to see both Sarpaneva and Holtihnrichs take enormous steps up in price. I think part of that is driven by the time it takes to do some of the hand finishing. I know that when I talked with Holthinrichs they indicated it was taking nearly double the time for the finishing on the Ornament models as they estimated. That eats up a lot of resources. But they also don't want to lessen the final product, so it kind of makes sense for small independents with limited resources to devote those resources to pieces that make more. i have not looked as closely at the Sarpaneva as the Deconstructed from Holthinrichs, but it certainly is an enormous step up in the amount of work involved, but also a big step up in cost. I understand that Holthinrichs will have a newer version of an "entry" level watch coming soon. It seems that Sarpaneva has done a really good job of growing S.U.F. to be that entry level. I think that's a really smart thing to do and bodes well for the future as they move up market.

Gathered up some of the recent articles discussing the latest release of the Deconstructed. https://revolutionwatch.com/holthinrichs-deconstructed/ However, what truly distinguishes the dial is its exceptional finishing. Resembling a movement plate, the dial plates exhibit bevelled edges, creating a polished contrast against the textured top surface. This exquisite treatment extends to other visible components on the front, such as the hour markers, hands, and movement bridges, all carefully finished to highlight the brand’s appreciation of traditional craftsmanship in movement detailing. https://wornandwound.com/holthinrichs-announces-the-deconstructed-their-most-ambitious-watch-yet/ The new watch is their most ambitious yet by a large margin, incorporating a new in-house movement and pushing the limits of their manufacturing process seemingly as far as they’ll go. If you look back on the watches they were making just a few years ago, the Deconstructed represents a fairly enormous leap in confidence and conviction in what the brand is doing. It’s genuinely exciting. https://monochrome-watches.com/holthinrichs-deconstructed-3d-printed-titanium-case-and-bracelet-calibre-hm-m01-hands-on-review-price/ For the better part of half a decade, we have been keeping close tabs on a very specific watchmaker of Dutch origin; Michiel Holthinrichs. This young man, 33 years of age now, has a very different approach to design compared to the vast majority of watchmaking companies out there. Utilizing his background as an architect to the fullest, Holthinrichs Watches have been pioneering 3D printed technology in combination with ornamental design. The inaugural model of the brand, the Ornament 1 has recently gone out of production and new creations were to be expected to take its place. The first new creation to emerge from the Atelier in Delft is the DECONSTRUCTED, a watch that looks like nothing else on the planet! https://www.fratellowatches.com/introducing-the-holthinrichs-watches-deconstructed/ Michiel Holthinrichs has always been on a very personal path to horological enlightenment. Having trained as an architect, his method of watch design is marked by a fresh, studious approach. How it shows is in the way Michiel seems to have a deeper, more thoughtful agenda than a lot of small brands, and he doesn’t shy away from polarizing designs. The pure otherness of Holthinrichs Watches has always resonated with me as we certainly have enough homage in this world. And by introducing the DECONSTRUCTED, Michiel is cementing his position within European horology. https://www.ablogtowatch.com/new-release-the-radical-holthinrichs-deconstructed-watch/ A little over a month ago, I had the chance to review the incredible Holthinrichs RAW Ornament, and at the end of the review, I had the less incredible task of sharing that the brand was discontinuing two of its three models as it reorganizes its product line and strategy. Well, Holthinrichs has just released the first model of that brand evolution, the Holthinrichs DECONSTRUCTED. While the all-caps text is from the brand, it’s not a far cry from how I feel about this release, which marks an exciting chapter not just for the brand but for 3D printing in watch manufacturing. https://oracleoftime.com/holthinrichs-deconstructed/ Every so often you come across a watchmaker who has a genuinely unique approach to watchmaking that totally changes how you think about watches. Off the top of my head one of the most exciting is Holthinrichs, who produce watches using cutting edge metal 3D printing. In fact, Holthinrichs they’ve just announced their latest project, the Holthinrichs Deconstructed. Conceptually the new watch is inspired by the deconstructivism movement in art and architecture. Deconstructivism is a movement that involves dissecting and analysing structures in order to challenge existing concepts and reassemble them in new configurations. It’s an approach that goes hand in hand with the process of 3D printing as you literally have to deconstruct and map out every tiny facet of the watch in order to create it. https://watchilove.com/introducing-holthinrichs-watches-deconstructed Throughout an intensive and lengthy process of deconstruction and analysis, all layers of the classical watch, case, dial, movement, hands, and bracelet, are carefully dissected and recomposed to achieve a new and truly integral and radical design where the hierarchical relationships between the components are eliminated, their technical functioning is provocatively exposed, and all parts work together in a dynamic whole.

I ended up going with the Fuji 33mm f1.4. Its apparently a great lens and will definitely expand my ability to shoot watches and other stuff. There's a definite learning curve because I'm so used to a macro lens and how to set up shot using it that I haven't gotten used to the wider field of view on the new lens, nor the distance from the object. However, it does have autofocus, so I'm able to get some actual wrist/pocket shots occasionally. It will also let me get more shots with artwork that will showcase both the watch and the art. With the macro lens, the focus is primarily the watch and you can't see much of the art.

Definitely. The next time I'm home I'll see if my mom has any.

Sergey is working on his newest creation. I don't have a name for it yet, but the dial is made of silver and it uses an ETA6498. It had some similar elements to the Fortress, so possibly the Fortress III. The hands in these photos are not the actual hands, just placeholders as he designs a new handset. All of this is still a work in progress but its always interesting to see the development process.

I was able to have a conversation with Michiel and Damiaen last week regarding the Deconstructed and it was enlightening. This was an incredibly intensive process to develop the watch and the movement. The costs for development were extremely significant and an enormous risk for the company. Overall the watch seems to have been very well received - which was a huge relief for something so different. The brand, and Michiel in particular, take enormous pride in their finishing. Nearly every element of the watch the 3D-printed bracelet, and the movement include finishing by hand. Hence the price. Apparently the price, while an enormous jump, hasn't been received particularly negatively. I think that's because it does require so much hand finishing that people in a position to buy a watch at this price point realize that is where a large amount of the cost in high-end watches goes. Throw in the development of the manufacture movement which has been a 6-year journey, and the price doesn't seem so outrageous. Also, I learned that the finishing on the Ornament 1 and the Raw Ornament takes about 85 hours which is double what was estimated it would take. With that level of time and cost invested in each piece, the decision to discontinue those models makes more sense. What also contributed to the decision, and something I think all Holthinrichs fans will be excited about, is that there is a new, more affordable model line in the works. Michiel showed me a sketch on the screen, but I don't have any shots to share. That said, if you remember back a few months, Holthinrichs had a few sketches on its IG feed and also had some stories asking followers to post their favorite cars. In fact, before the Deconstructed announcement, I guessed the new design would be influenced by classic cars. I was right, I just had the timing wrong. It was originally anticipated this model would be announced as the replacement for the O1 and RO before the announcement of the Deconstructed, but the Deconstructed was actually ready first, so it was announced at the end of May. The new model, which will be the start of a new family will have extremely dramatic, rounded lugs, continuing the theme of the O1 and RO, but even moreso. From what I understand, the amount of finishing on the watch and the movement will be more minimal to keep Holthinrichs costs down and allow them to sell it at a price more in line with their previous models. However, I don't know what that price will be, just that it will be more of entry level than the Deconstructed. If I had to guess, it will be generally in line with the O1 and RO/Liminality Series. I think this is a great idea to maintain a more accessible watch. While Holthinrichs has certainly grown in popularity over the past few years, they still aren't a household name, even among relatively experienced independent collectors. It also sounded like this line would also be the launch pad for a new vertical and a haute horlogerie piece based on this design would also be available at some point in the future. I'm guessing quite a ways off since the focus is on the deconstructed. Its another stunning looking watch and still contains the Holthinrichs DNA although the sketch I saw was relatively minimal but it looks like the general case design is similar and the biggest change is in the lugs. The dial may offer some changes - I know from previous conversations that Holthinrichs likes to experiment with materials and colors and has a lot of one-off dials they have created, so maybe they have come across something new they will use for this watch. Regardless, expect news at Geneva Watch Days. A few other notes: About half of the Deconstructed have sold. The rubber strap, which is 3D printed, will apparently be somewhat translucent - something they've recently discovered how to do. Sounds like it will be very cool. The Liminality series was a stepping stone between the O1/RO and the Deconstructed - you can see the evolutionary step. I think if the new model is successful, you will see Holthinrichs continue to grow as it more fully develops and implements a lower-priced base model and higher-priced haute horlogerie model within two different verticals. The releases staggered so that as one model vertical moves from the base to the higher-end piece, it will be replaced with a newer base model and the process will repeat. I also expect one off limited series as kind of a middle ground/evolutionary proof of concept similar to the Liminality. This is my takeaway on the plans going forward - nothing set in stone here. Sounds like a trip to the US may happen at some point in the relatively near future. Not sure if that means this year or sometime early in 2024. I'll try get more information about this and keep everyone updated. That's about all I recall right now, but I'll add later if I remember anything else about the conversation. Thanks to Michiel and Damiaen for spending their time to chat with me. They represent everything I love about independent watchmaking and exemplify how much the personal relationship aspect can enhance the watch ownership experience.

So Hermann was kind enough to send me a 57BA to photograph. I will say every watch takes me a few days to get used to the lighting and angle and I just got this yesterday. Plus it has a lot of curves, including the crystal, as well as having a polished surfaces. Both things that still confound me and my makeshift studio on my kitchen table. Regardless, I'm practicing and here's a few early shots.

My dad first bought a hotrod while I was in college but I always enjoyed it. He didn't keep it too long before he sold it and then got into remodeling Model A's and was part of the Austin Model A club. I'll see if I can find some photos of some of his cars. He had a '31 Crown Victoria and a fire truck and a few others he worked on and rebuilt but ended up selling. I was never very mechanically inclined, but I think it definitely plays a part in my love for mechanical watches. I truly appreciate people that can design and build watches and I'm fascinated that hundreds of inert metal pieces can be assembled to tell the time within just a few seconds per day. Really remarkable.

What happens when you pair sleek and clean Danish design with a mad scientist? The Arcanaut ARC II Fordite is the answer. And it absolutely works. The case for the ARC II is a refinement from Arcanauts original case design for the ARC I launched in 2018. The original ARC II paired with a unique, crushed stone dial (more on that dial later). However, when looking at the ARC II, Anders Brandt (one of the original Arcanaut founders, and James Thompson - the Black Badger) took a step in a much brighter and more colorful direction. After I bought the Fordite (but before I had received it), I had a chance to meet both Anders and James at WatchTime in New York. They were there to attend the events, but also to deliver one of the very first Fordites to Nate Cho. It was an amazing experience and was clear they have an obvious rapport. And they are a great reminder that while watches are serious business, they can, and should, be fun and enjoyable. And that's why I think Arcanaut is on a path for success. They are both also fantastic storytellers and James is definitely a bit of a mad scientist. One of the reasons I love independent brands is the opportunity to interact and meet the watchmakers and learn what makes them tick. In the case of Arcanaut, its a unique blend of nordic inspiration, crazy canadian experimentation, and alcohol. Joking aside, the pair make a great team and the creative chemistry is very apparent. Back to the watch - Fordite is quite simply industrial paint waste from car factories. As cars leave the assembly line and get painted, the walls of the paint factory build up layers and layers of paint. This buildup on the walls is then chipped off and is commonly called Fordite. As these layers build over months and years, the paint colors change and the distribution becomes uneven. To create the dials, smaller samples are cut to form the dials and then polished, revealing the most amazing array of colors and patterns underneath. Even more interesting is that even changing the location of the cut by just a very miniscule amount results in a different dial as the thickness for the various colors changes. That means no two dials are the same and every single watch is essentially a completely unique piece. If you like things that are different and one of a kind, this is your watch. The watch case itself relies on Scandanavian design principles, primarily Scandanavian Functionalism, which places the design focus on the functionality. On Arcanauts on website in describing Scandanavian Functionalism, they state, "In the watch industry, it has become commonplace to see watches which are more art than a usable tool." As someone who loves art, I think this statement is somewhat misguided. Art is a tool. Maybe not a functional tool like you're envisioning, but a tool for the soul. A tool of expression for the artist and a tool that can bring a range of emotions to the viewer. I love watches BECAUSE they are a form of mechanical art. From the hundreds of inert parts of the movement quite literally springing to life to tell the time, to the curves of the case, to the dial, to the arrangement of the indices and hands. The Fordite, though industrial in nature, is sculpted and polished to reveal the previously hidden beauty of the layers of paint. Like your own personal artwork. And yes, its very good for the soul. The watch itself is a clean, industrial and functional design. There are no major flourishes or dramatic ornamental details other than a polished and slightly raised edge on the side profile. Its a very nice, but clean aesthetic. The case is ergonomically shaped to curve with the wrist on both the top and on the bottom. At the "lugs", the middle section of the case extends while into a hollow insert. It's difficult to describe, but here's some photos to help illustrate. What you end up with is one of the most well designed integrated rubber straps I've encountered. It's exceptionally secure, easy to change straps (with the included screwdriver), and fits tightly with the case primarily due to the four screws and the rubber insert into the case itself. The ingenuity in the case and strap integration is exceptional. The strap flows effortlessly from the case with no gap. Back to the watch though. The marriage of the clean scandanavian functionality and the seemingly disparate Fordite dial could easily look out of place. But I liken it to framing a painting. Sometimes, a really intricate hand-carved frame is a perfect accentuation of the artwork. But other times, the frame simply needs to encapsulate the beauty within. I think the latter case applies here. The dial is so striking and visibly eye-catching, you don't want the case to distract. And with its clean lines and modern look, it really suits and highlights the dial. Before my ARC II Fordite was delivered, I had the opportunity to see the ARC II D'arc Matter and it has a completely different feel. While its the same case, the dial is a dark, matte grey-black with texture. The overall feel is very clean and modern with both the dial and case adding equally to that aesthetic. Here, the vibe is much more laid back and fun and that's due to the case taking a back seat to the dial. Its also amazing how much the straps change the dynamic and feel of the watch. While I love the white because its clean and modern and eye-catching, its definitely a summer strap. I think during the colder months I'll probably wear it on the dark olive green and blue straps much more often, both of which I really like. The brown definitely fits on some dials (especially the linear), more than it does on mine. And the black looks good as well, but just doesn't give me the same feelings as with the other options. Almost like its too toned down for such a fun watch. The red strap works as well but for some reason just doesn't resonate with me when I have it on. I reserve the right to change my opinions on the straps over time. Other than the white, I tend to like the deeper colored straps - something that adds to the overall fun nature of the watch but doesn't distract too much from the dial.. I think a deep, burnt orange would look extraordinary on mine (hint hint). The hands are skeletonized and relatively minimalist. I chose the fat hour hand for legibility and I think that's the right decision. I also went with the white lumed tips (instead of blue or orange) because there's enough color on the dial and I didn't want the hands distracting from that. The hands are nicely brushed and do a very nice job of reflecting light to be visible but not distracting. At times they are dark and fade into the background but a quick twist of the wrist brings them into view. Under most conditions this isn't an issue and in actuality its a feature because they don't distract from the dial. The crown is another differentiating factor from most watches. Its rectangular in shape and designed to follow the lines of the case. As the photo below shows, the crown has a small notch on the underside which lets you pull it out where you can easily set the time and then push it in one click to rotate it back to the correct orientation before clicking it back into place. Its a small, but satisfying click and ensures the crown is back in position. Just another innovative and functional element in the design. While it is usually hidden on the underside of the watch, here's a photo I took to highlight the crown system where you can see the crown slightly pulled out and rotated to the dial side. Narrator: He didn't notice the crown was pulled out when he took the photo I only have a couple very minor issues with the watch, one being that the innovative crown is almost too easy to turn and set the time. Think of it like loosening a nut. When its tight and you first start loosening it, you have complete control of the wrench. But as it loosens and unscrews more easily, it becomes more difficult to handle the wrench. Same with the crown. Its so smooth and easy to turn that I think a little added tension would actually make it easier to operate. An extremely minor issue and only worth mentioning because I've mentioned it to Arcanaut. Beyond the aesthetics, the watch is extremely comfortable to wear with both the ergonomic curved design and the great integrated rubber strap. It certainly looks great on my 18cm (7") wrist and I think would wear comfortably on a slightly smaller wrists and could easily accomodate larger sizes as well. The strap is extremely pliable and comfortably and secures the watch to your wrist. It is one of the best rubber straps I've come across. The strap integration into the case is second to none and is not only extremely secure but looks like an extension of the case. A second, again very minor, issue is the AR coating. This won't be an issue for 99% of people, but the blue sheen of the AR coating is visible when taking photographs and trying to capture a good flecto. I understand this is already being addressed and in day-to-day wear it isn't an issue in the least as the watch dial is luckily very visible. So chalk this up to a photography issue and not a watch issue. The reflective coating does a good job of reducing reflection and allowing the dial to The awesome caseback also shouldn't be ignored - Fordite gets its own element within the periodic table. This is one of my favorite casebacks - creative and individual, it also notes the model (in my case No. 19). Overall, the watch is extremely well made, and feels very solid on the wrist. While it isn't lightweight the rubber strap carries the weight extremely well. You won't forget you're wearing it, but do you want to? The engineering and implementation of the integrated strap is very well designed and thought out and its great to see a small brand truly innovate. This definitely isn't a watch for the average person. But the average person is boring. And with limited production, it isn't meant to be. The unique and beautiful dial is spectacular, but not everyone is looking for spectacular in this sense. Time telling is approximate at best, just as it should be when wearing a fun, casual watch like this. You don't need to be bothered with seconds, or even a few minutes here or there. Just enjoy the sun and the beautiful art on your wrist. The design and execution are truly innovative and excellently implemented. This is one of the most dynamic and fun watches in my collection. It is certainly the one that gets the most comments from non-watch people - all positive. Plus you get an opportunity to nerd out about how the dial is made and some of the other cool features. Speaking of the dial, you do get to choose the dial before it goes into a watch, but buying something like this without being able to see it in person is somewhat of a leap of faith. but its a leap I'm glad I made and the watch is one of the standouts of my collection. Kudos to Anders, James, and the entire Arcanaut team on creating such a unique and exciting timepiece. I'm excited to see what Arcanaut has in store for 2023 and beyond. The combination of scandanavian functionalism and mad scientist is definitely an exciting combination. Oh, and about the D'Arc Matter dial material. As anyone who has met James Thompson can attest, he's 50% mad scientist and 50% storyteller, especially after a few drinks. Apparently the material for the D'Arc matter came when he noticed some slate stone from a neighborhood fountain outside his home was starting to flake off. He took some of the flakes, put them in a blender, and created the material for the D'Arc matter. A few minutes (and a sledgehammer later) he had enough material to make more dials. But don't tell the HOA. Lots more shots.

Deconstructed Thoughts on the new release from Holthinrichs. Photos from Holthinrichs Release Info/Instagram About 15 months ago I sat on a Zoom call with Michiel Holthinrichs and Damiaen Hogervorst. That call lasted nearly 3 hours and we discussed the watch I was interested in purchasing, as well as an idea I had about a dial I was interested in seeing if they would be able to create. Still waiting on that dial, but its clear that Michiel and team have been very busy. While on the Zoom, Michiel was visibly excited about a project they were working on and during a tour of the Atelier, he shared some quick looks at a deconstructed dial. It was a far cry from the current iteration, but it was obvious this was a new watch they were extremely excited about. Now, 15 months later, I have a much better appreciation of their excitement as they shared that small piece of the watchmaking process with me. Not that long ago, Michiel Holthinrichs was living in a one-bedroom studio apartment/watchmaking shop. A background in architect had turned to a fascination with a much smaller but even more complex form of design - watchmaking. With inspiration from historical architectural stylings and a vintage Cyma, Michiel sought out a new technology - 3D printing - as the modern means to achieve his ambitious vision. Certainly watchmakers have increasingly relied on new technology over the years, but this was different. This was taking an emerging and untested technology and pushing the boundaries to achieve and create a process that could be used to make a stable, strong, and beautiful design with incredibly tight tolerances. It also allowed for the case to include a hollowed out side case, both reducing weight and also the partially hidden text. The Deconstructed model was already on Michiel's mind as early as 2017, even if the vision was surely refined over the past several years. In hindsight, the Liminality and Pre-Liminality were precursors of what was to come. The open-work dial and even the sectionized dial (although machined into the dial instead of individual pieces) all were the early steps into the full deconstruction. The DNA from the Ornament 1 to the Raw Ornament to the Liminality/Pre-Liminality and now the Deconstructed is pure Holthinrichs. The thin, hollowed out profile of the 3D-printed dial, long skeletonized lugs with flowing curves, ultra-lightweight, and thin bezel to maximize dial area are all familiar. More on each of these features in a bit. While the design of the watch and especially the bracelet has been the primary focus, probably the biggest change is the addition of a manufacture movement, the Caliber HM-M01. This is a monumental achievement for such a young brand. It is based on the gear-train layout of the Perseux 7001, a movement Holthinrichs was familiar with as the base movement for its Ornament and Liminality models. Pushing boundaries in design elements and tolerances, as well as a philosophy of an integral approach, it only makes sense to develop a movement. In partnership with dutch-based precision manufacturers, Michiel turned this dream into a reality. While the HM-M01 provides a relatively simple hours, minutes & subseconds, the flexibility provided in manufacturing their own movement is an significant step both for the Deconstructed, but also for the future. It's a big step for a brand obviously looking to move into a completely different realm of watchmaking. Both the Liminality and Pre-Liminality included openwork dials. This time though, the dial highlights the HM-M01 a movement that allows for additional flexibility both in the design and addition of complications, but also allows Holthinrichs to really highlight their excellent hand-finishing. Something they take great pride in. Bridges, beveling, frosting, and Anglage, oh my! I'm still learning about the intricacies and movements and finishing and what it takes to go from good to excellent. I do know that Michiel and some of his team have attended the Phillipe Narbel Watchmaking Masterclass to refine their work and improve their capabilities. The movement appears to have a significant amount of interior angles and wide beveling. Besides highlighting intricate workings of the movement however, the dial provides a dynamic nature all of its own. Broken down into 25 separate components with 3 different levels in a manner that is only possible due to the incredibly tight 3D-printing tolerances, it is something to behold. The inspiration for the dial came from Nature in the form of the rings of a tree trunk. More than that, the shape naturally draws the eye to the movement. The layers themselves also serve a purpose as described in the Holthinrichs release. The first layer consists of a carefully open-worked ring forming both the structural part of the dial, and a frame to exhibit the movement and some of its delicate parts. The second layer consists of twelve floating sectors that embrace 48 minute markers that protrude from the surface of the baseplate. In between these sectors the third layer is located, made out of 12 strongly pronounced and manually finished stainless steel baton shape markers to indicate the hours. This 3-layer layour adds an entirely new 3D dimensionality to the watch despite its impressively thin profile.The concept of floating levels is almost antithetical to dial and watchmaking where the goal is to avoid gaps. On the Deconstructed they are included as an architectural element. Although the dial is remarkably different than earlier models, it remains intimately familiar and unmistakably Holthinrichs. The case itself is also similar to the previous Raw Ornament, with alternating Raw and brushed elements (as opposed to polished surfaces) providing incredible visual interest and help highlight both the bezel and the lugs. The effect is clearly meant to highlight each element individually as part of the deconstruction, while tying them all together. This contrast is similar to that found on the Raw Ornament, but I think even more successful and sporty looking, consistent with the overall look and feel of the watch. This dramatic effect continues with the lugs which is another major change from the previous models. The Ornament 1 and Raw Ornament cases both sported incredibly dramatic, skeletonized, and flowing lugs. Honestly the lugs are one of my favorite features of Holthinrichs design. In the eariler models, the lugs distinctly integrated into the case by flowing into the top of the bezel, illustrated below. Keeping with the theme of deconstruction; however, and now taking inspiration from human anatomy, the lugs appear nearly separate from the case. This is done in an incredibly interesting manner, again only allowed by the 3D-printing process. The lugs continue to maintain skeletonization with a distinct split that almost appears to be two separate elements but the the integration is now inspired by a ball and socket joint, like a pelvic bone. The lugs are similarly designed to actually attach to the case within the partially hidden confines of the hollowed out side profile. A step down as it comes into view from the edge of the case provides a hard to describe feeling that the lugs are floating and dettached from the watch itself. There's not really a way to describe it, so here's a couple photographs. The re-design and re-assembly of the case, dial, and lugs are themselves enough to warrant a new model. Then things get interesting. I have to admit that my first reaction when I saw the watch bracelet was an audible Holy Sh....well let's just say I was floored. To say there hasn't ever been anything like the bracelet (and to a lesser extent the strap) is an understatement. The first person I discussed it with said it reminded them of the old Oakley Watch bracelet. And while there's a bold industrial consistency there, I don't think that's an adequate comparison. The Oakley is bold and brash and designed for a much more aggressive watch. The bracelet on the Deconstructed is certainly aggressive, but despite its industrial look looks incredibly refined. First, the bracelet is 3D-printed which is the first of a kind. Second, Michiel again took inspiration from nature. This time in the form of the scales of an alligator. Even more interesting than that is what I can only describe as a second set of lugs within the bracelet that mirror the actual lugs. The brushed finishing inextricably links those two elements and then flows into the "scales" which are also designated by brushed, thin, (and words fail me, so for lack of anything better) "center links." Really, only a much better writer than me could describe them aptly, so here's some photos. Again, something this complex could really only be achieved through the 3D-printing process. The only comparison I can make is the bracelet is like that found on the Moser Streamliner, except on acid. It's a living and dynamic thing and its incredible, imo. Kudos to Holthinrichs for something so dynamic and unique. It's also my biggest concerns with the watch, as I'll address shortly. The rubber strap, while less dramatic, also mimics the effect of the crocodile scales as well as contains the openwork element at the case, although without the brushed internal "lugs." I chatted with Michiel very briefly after getting the pre-release info - they were understandably tired and incredibly busy preparing for the official release. He wanted to create something completely new and provocative. In that, the Deconstructed is already an incredible success. Whether it appeals to you or not has never been a more personal decision. It certainly isn't for everyone, or even most people, or even many people for that matter. Undeniably Holthinrichs, achingly familiar, and yet absolutely new and truly a New Craft in Watchmaking. Michiel has never played it safe and has incredibly grasped at stars out of his reach. Until they aren't. He's already gone from a very humble start to a places very few people in the world can achieve in less than 8 years. One of my favorite musicians, Ryan Adams, years ago penned a song called Firecracker. While the song is about love and not watchmaking, one of the verses stands out, "Well everybody wants to go forever, I just want to burn up hard and bright." I think that's definitely Michiel's mindset, although I don't think he has plans on burning up. But his ascendancy is certainly on a trajectory like a firecracker and he's burning bright. And that doesn't come without risk. Obviously he's not averse to risk, continuing to push boundaries well before he became more well known in the independent watch world. But stopping production on your most popular models and releasing a challenging, provocative, and polarizing watch is the action of someone who burns bright. Personally I love the watch. I believe its an incredbile feat of engineering, design, and modern-techonology. It captures the essence of deconstruction, it captures the essence of Holthinrichs Watches, and it blends a variety of disparate parts into a harmonious whole. When I first saw it, I did have a few concerns. First, the bracelet, while absolute incredible, is a LOT to take in and in some ways I wonder if it overshadows from the watch itself. Not only that, it is difficult to tell in photos how such a substantial bracelet would fit on what is a relatively small and thin watch. Would it look like a natural extension of the timepiece, or something so different it would look out of place? Having now seen some wristshots, I think it works, but without seeing it in person, that's certainly still a concern. The Crown, which looks great, also appears like it could be difficult to wind. Partially inset into the case profile, it is raw on the inside and brushed on the exterior. There are no ridges and the way it appears in photos appears that the circumferential joint between the raw and brushed surfaces has an edge which is parallel to the rotational direction. Having polished surfaces on the crowns on my Raw Ornament and Pre-Liminality, these can be somewhat difficult to wind. I think the raw interior portion of the crown on the Deconstructed will alleviate this potential issue as it is more tactile and easy to grip without your fingers slipping. That said, it is something to look at when handling the watch. And finally, the elephant in the room, the price. Holthinrichs models (not highly customized) have sold for between $8-10k for the last few years. This is really a sweet spot for an introduction to high-end independent watchmaking with numerous very high quality brands offering exceptional value and wonderful timepieces in this range. It's also relatively crowded and becoming increasingly so. And I know Michiel has high aspirations to move beyond entry level which he has done so here and I anticipate will continue to do in the future. That said, this is a significant jump in price to about $38,000 USD. There's obviously a significant amount of time spent designing this watch and likely just as much designing the bracelet. Developing a new manufacture movement is a monumental step. Those things come at a price. There's also literally dozens of pieces to be assembled and finished on the dial alone and the movement is designed to highlight Holthinrichs exceptional finishing. Even developing the new binding process for the 3D printing to allow for the watch to even be made is a significant cost both in time and money. There's no doubt a significant price adjustment is not only expected but completely justified. But the level of competition at that price increases significantly - Grönefeld, Moritz Grossman, Laurent Ferrier to name a few in a similar range. Is Holthinrichs at a point to command prices at that level? I think certainly this watch will be able to command that and there's an incredible amount of work that has to go into making the Deconstructed. There are only 20 planned to be made and certainly there are enough current Holthinrichs customers that have the money to spend on something this unique and incredibly well executed. But looking longer-term, where does Holthinrichs the brand go? What is next? This price point sets extremely high expectations, not only for this watch but future models. And the competition is very high at this price level. I'm certainly not betting against Michiel and the Holthinrichs team. The Deconstructed is a defining timepiece for Holthinrichs. It defines and clarifies the direction the brand is headed. Like it or not, Michiel is not one to rest on his laurels and simply maintain the status quo. He is driven to be one of the top watchmakers in the world. Like a firecracker, he's headed skyward and burning bright. The results will be spectacular, even if like a New Years fireworks show, many of us have to watch from afar.

I can see that but that's not how it struck me. I like the open dial concept over a pure skeleton dial. I also think its consistent with the overall deconstructed theme. I was more concerned with the bracelet at first. It was clearly very interesting and by itself looked great. But the watch (and previous versions) are SO thin that I was worried it might look out of place on the watch in person. Having seen some screenshots, I think I'm sold on it. Just seemed from first appearances that it might be too substantial and thick based on the size of the thickness of the watch. Working on a write-up now with more detailed thoughts.

So I've now seen the watch promotional materials that went out to previous owners yesterday. I'm sworn to secrecy, so I can't share pictures. Let me just say a few things. The case is unmistakably recognizable as Holthinrichs, as well as the lugs. All I can really say about everything else is Holy F'in Shit. Literally the words out of my mouth when I saw it. There really isn't any other watchmaker that I'm aware of pushing boundaries like Holthinrichs. Maybe someone like Kees Englebarts or Ondrej Berkus, Dervis Uhrenmanufacktur, Itay Noy, ot @f.rozon. I'm sure there are others, but those are the ones that immediately came to mind. I've thought about this since I got the email yesterday. This will be a polarizing release. It is an enormous risk, but an incredibly exciting one and an indication that Holthinrichs is looking to move up market. It is also very clear that Michiel continues to be a bold innovator. I anticipate there will be a lot of naysayers and negativity. It is a polarizing design. Holthinrichs was already not a brand for a casual collector, both from aesthetics and price. This watch is not an entry level piece by any stretch of the imagination. I look at this as a positive overall. Polarizing in my mind means you are doing something outside the norm, challenging peoples' comfort level, and challenging yourself to create something unique. Something that is tough to considering the long history of watchmaking. The price will also be a deterrent for many. There will be 20 watches made in the first series. I don't know exactly what that means. Is this limited and then there will release a second series in 18 months. Is this going to be the one model for the foreseeable future or are they considering offering a more entry level timepiece that would be a replacement of the O1 and RO? I don't know the answers to these questions. The watch is certainly aggressive compared to the earlier models, even the Lims/Prelims. The bracelet and strap make it clear this isn't a dressier watch but something sportier and casual. I didn't see a water resistance rating or anything like that, so I see it more as a casual watch. I hate to compare it to anything. It is incredibly light and thin, just like all Holthinrichs watches. But the design, especially of the bracelet and rubber strap, make it much more aggressive and sporty looking. My personal opinion is that while the economy has been shaky the last year plus, this seems to really be impacting the hype watches that needed to reset, and then entry level pieces in the sub $15k price category where the people buying them are definitely affected by economic conditions. People shopping for watches at this price range are not slowing down as much - brands like Sarpaneva, Gronefeld, Moritz Grossman, Laurent Ferrier are not having trouble selling their watches. Clearly Holthinrichs wants to compete at this level of watch and not in the sub-$10k range they have occupied previously. At least based on this release. Again, 20 watches in 18 months is not a lot of watches, but they are extremely labor intensive, so I don't know if there is enough capacity to have a more entry-level timepiece. And that may be something they don't want to do. Gronefeld and MG and LF do not have "entry level" timepieces. And it can cheapen the overall brand. My personal opinion is that instead of inching their prices up year over year, they just ripped off the bandaid and jumped up market because that's where they want to be and their watches going forward will start at this new price point. That is completely my opinion and not based on any discussion with Holthinrichs. One potential option in lieu of that is to use Michiel's other watch company, Delft Watch Works, in a similar manner as Sarpaneva uses SUF. Entry level pieces that are very nice but don't require a lot of hand assembly/finishing and provides an entry to the brand at affordable prices. That can be done without cheapening the Holthinrichs brand and allowing it to be completely focused on low production, extremely high quality watches. I personally love the watch, at least in the photos I've seen. I'm a little uncertain how it will appear in the metal and with the bracelet/strap. In some ways it is still a somewhat small watch at 38.5mm and less than 7mm high without the crystal. The bracelet, imo, is amazingly integrated into the design and apparently has a quick release system built in. But the styling of the bracelet (which isn't like anything I've ever seen), is something I would expect to see on a larger sports/diving watch. So I look at the photos and I love it one time and then the next uncertainty creeps in. But the more I look at it, the more certain I am that it works. Overall I'm excited by the watch and the direction Holthinrichs it is heading. I think Michiel and team are visionaries and they are committed to continuing to improving their processes and their skills, including adding manufacture movements. That said, it is certainly a significant reduction in availability and increase in cost that will risks alienating some current clients. Thoughts? I'll post some of the materials that were sent out along with photos after the official announcement.

There's definitely a lot of shit under $10k, but there's also some really quality ones like Dornbluth, and Habring² and Zeitwinkel. I think the work required to assemble this watch and also the finishing certainly justify a higher amount, but I do think there's a point where your price yourself out of what a lot of people are willing to pay. You also move up into another class of watch with different brands competing for customers. I think 8-10k is kind of a sweet spot for smaller independents where they are still accessible for most watch people interested in these types of watches. There's a balance to strike between maximizing the price and also making it reasonably available to know collectors. And I know the cost of everything had gone way up which also pushes process upwards. And they have a backlog of orders so they aren't hurting for business. The previous models were steel but also available in other metals. A titanium would almost for away, it's already a very lightweight watch. I personally prefer a little more weight than titanium has.i like to feel that I'm wearing the watch and it just feels more premium. But I know that's a matter of opinion.

I am too. They just stopped making it and are about to release their new model in the next couple weeks. Should be interesting. The guys at Holthinrichs are pretty cool, had a chance to chat with them several times. The 3D printing is pretty crazy and allows them to do some cool stuff like the side profile is hollowed out and there is text that is hidden. The kids are hollow and have a hidden drilled hole to release the springbar. I posted some sketches of the new version and the lugs are floating and the dial is deconstructed.

The I study the lugs the more I like them. I love the originals but I think the way there are attached to be floating is going to make them even more eye-catching. I think this is one of the coolest things allowed by the 3D printing.

Since more details. You can see how the floating lugs work. Will be interesting to see the effect in real life. They definitely assist to have a more significant downturn than the original models. You can also see how the deconstructed dial works and fits together. Always there will be a lot of hours not only finishing each timepiece but also just assembling the sections of the dial. Overall it looks incredible and unlike anything else out there. That's too be expected.

Yeah, sounds like a lot of time spent to assemble it. Interested in seeing the price. I did talk with someone (not Holthinrichs) who indicated the pre-announcement would be under $10k but the retail price would be over that. Not arguing, there's a lot of watchmaker time going into each one and the finishing will be great I'm sure But that's a pretty big threshold to go over. Will be interesting to see how that is received.