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GPHG 2022


Nakkdry

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Let's talk about GPHG 2022. I don't always agree with categories or selections but this event makes it possible to discover little-known models, like this ArtyA depth gauge !

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The colors of the dial disappears the more you dive, I think it's a great idea and an useful one. The "wave" bezel is also original and makes this watch apart from other diver.

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Thanks for making a discussion @nakkdry!

I added a complete list of finalists in the News forum but better to keep the discussion here.

That ArtyA is new to me and completely crazy. Absolutely love it. I'm with Ed, I don't know that I'd actually get to see it ever change from 5M as most of my deepest diving is about 8 or 9' to the bottom of my pool. 🙂

But that's an extremely cool concept. I'm guessing that it goes in revers on the way up (need to read more about it), so you can control your decompression as well.

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I highly recommend checking out the Cronotempvs Clubhouse Martinson the Week in Watches. 

Generally they have a great discussion every week or two. This week the discussion revolved around their selective for GPHG. 

Clubhouse is just a voice chat app you can download for Apple or Android. 

 

Alright, off to look at the finalists in more detail. 

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I'll preface this as just my opinion which counts as much as you paid for it.

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I like Ladies watches that are willing to look at watches as more than simply jewelry with a movement. This was tough as I think the PF, the A&S, and the Chaykin are all watches first. I also appreciate that PF didn't overdo it with the diamonds like the Chopard. While the A&S is extremely impressive, this really comes down to the PF and Chaykin for me. The moonphase tongue licking the lips on the Harley Quinn version makes this a tough choice. At the end of the day, I think ladies' watches should be more focused on the watch and I think the restrained use of diamonds on the PF and the brown on gold is perfect. PF Tonda Automatic for me.

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The Van Cleef & Arpels is an incredible complication. The Hermès is amazing as well, but the Van Cleef & Arpels is on another level. Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arepels Heures Florales Cerisier.

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The Akrivia is probably the favorite here and an absolutely beautiful watch. I also love the Sylvain Pinaud Origine. I also love the PF. This was tough, but I really love the innovation of the Trilobe and it is beautifully finished. Trilobe Une Folle Journée Black Edition.

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I really like the Singer but a one minute chrongraph seems relatively useless. I also like the Armin Strom but there are other AS watches I prefer. The Hermès is fantastic and a very useful complication. However, when I saw the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, that was the one I fell in love with. The entire concept of the Rattrapante GMT is new and is entirely consistent with the sparse theme of the Tonda PF. The ability to hide the GMT hand and further highlight the dial is a consistency in purpose and function and aesthetics. So the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante gets my vote.

Alright, I'll follow up with more later. Interested in others thoughts.

 

 

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I actually like this version of the Watchmon the best of all of them. For the ladies watch, I get why you need one. I think the execution of the diamond markers on the ladies' version is well done and understated. It is consistent with the overall aesthetic concept of the watch. So while I usually have an issue with just adding diamonds, in this case I think it's appropriate and well done. And it looks like a true watch, not a piece of jewelry. 

 

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TBH I think the GPHG is a boys club…you see the same watchmakers/companies.  I personally don’t feel Massena Labs should even be nominated.  Their dials are nothing to write about.  There are better superior dials than the ones they have been selected for.  This is my opinion.  I take GPHG with a grain of salt. 

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I have to admit some ignorance as to how the entire process works. I will say that there are definitely times when I'm baffled by the choices. In other instances, it seems the finalists are very deserving. I'm sure politics does play a significant part in the overall process. That said, it is interesting to look through the choices.

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Continuing...

Iconic

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 Probably a toss-up for me between the Breitling Navitimer and the Zenith Defy Revival. I've been enamored with the new Navitimer lineup so that's my pick. Truly a great new look for an absolute icon.

 

Tourbillon

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I know the GS Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon is the winning choice here. But the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton has my heart. The implementation of the small dial making it incredibly readable and the 3D lume really complements the wonderfully arranged skeletonization.

 

Calendar & Astonomy

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As much as I want to vote for the Sarpaneva and the Moser, it has to be the Krayon Anywhere. Simply amazing.

 

Mechanical Exception

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The Bovet is incredible and fascinating in its complications. I just can't say I really love how it looks. So for me its the Armin Strom. Mechanical innovation and a unique, sleek, industrial design.

 

To be continued....

 

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Not sure why it has a repeat at the bottom. I keep deleting it but it doesn't go away. Anyways, continuing.

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I think the PF is better as a two-hander or GMT Rattrapante. The vintage racing look of the LM is really well done and unique. I think the Czapek is underrated when sitting next to the Grönefeld and the MB&F, but the skeletonized Rattrapante and the sapphire subdials is pretty amazing. If push comes to shove though, I'd go with the MB&F first, Czapek second, then the Grönefeld third.

 

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If I was to get a Tudor, it would be a Pelagos, but not this one. The Tag doesn't do much for me, and the GS seems like a submariner homage.

I love the Doxa and what Breitling has done with their lineup over the last few years is nothing short of amazing, the SuperOcean being no exception. But is there any way the ArtyA doesn't win this? Cool, unique aesthetic and an extremely cool complication. For a brand I'd never heard of before this, really a fantastic entry. It's my pick here.

 

So those are my picks - what are your thoughts? I'm not going to do the jewelry/artsy watches but I will make special mention of the Voutilainen Ki-Ju. What an absolutely gorgeous watch.

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Here's a link with higher res photos and more information about each of the finalists - https://gphg-2022.watchonista.com/

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So, how did I do?

2022 GPHG Winners

Aguille d'Or Grand Prix

Winner: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

Ladies'

Winner: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic

Ladies' Complication

Winner: Hermès, Arceau Le temps voyageur

Men's

Winner: Akrivia, Chronomètre Contemporain II

Men's Complication

Winner: Hermès, Arceau Le temps voyageur

Iconic

Winner: TAG Heuer, Monaco X Gulf

Tourbillon

Winner: H. Moser & Cie, Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Calendar & Astronomy

Winner: Krayon, Anywhere

Mechanical Exception

Winner: Ferdinand Berthoud, FB 2RSM.2-1

Chronograph

Winner: Grönefeld, 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum

Divers' Watch

Winner: Tudor, Pelagos FXD

Jewellery

Winner: Bulgari, Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery

Artistic Crafts

Winner: Voutilainen, Ji-Ku

Petite Aguille

Winner: Trilobe, Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition

Challenge Watch

Winner: M.A.D. Editions, M.A.D.1 Red

Mechanical Clock

Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels, Fontaine Aux Oiseaux automaton

Innovation

Winner: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch

Audacity

Winner: Bulgari, Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary

Chronometry

Winner: Grand Seiko, Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon

Horological Revelation

Winner: Sylvain Pinaud, Origine

Special Jury

Winner: François Junod, automaton-maker and sculptor

 

Congratulations to all the winners. Thoughts on the selections?

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