Sketches of the new model

[TimeTexas]

So in February of 2022, at I was looking to buy my Raw Ornament, I was able to spend a couple hours talking on Zoom with Michael and Damiaen.

Michiel was very excited to show me a new project he was working on, with a deconstructed dial. Now that they have posted some sketches of the upcoming release that was the watch they were working on.

Lots to digest here. Looks like a continuing evolution from the Raw Ornament to the Liminality Series but with even more exaggerated architectural elements. The sketch showing the lug connection clearly based on a ball and socket hip joint.

[TimeTexas]

Definitely some strong nature, human, and structural elements. 

[TimeTexas]

From Damiaen, they are working on a publication now for Holthinrichs Owners presenting the new Model. The plan sounds like it will come out in the next few weeks, sometime in May.

Me:

My Bank Account:

[TimeTexas]

So from the Zoom call, it was a skeletonized dial with other different or deconstructed pieces layered setting the movement. That seems to be depicted in the first set of photos which shows individual hour markers and separate hour indices.

The second set of stretched appears to indicate the little are slightly more curved but more interestingly, the split which is similar to the O1/RO case may originate from two different sections of the case separately. See the deconnected lug. Hard to say for sure, but the integration with the case seems different. The sketch of the ball and socket joint may be fair aesthetics, but could it also mean that there's some movement of the lugs allowed? Seems unlikely but it fits day "deconnected" which could show for some rotation.

The last set is the movement which I'm still studying.

 

 

[Nakkdry]

05/30 ! Curious about this one. It surely be like nothing else.

[TimeTexas]

Yeah, sounds like a lot of time spent to assemble it. Interested in seeing the price. I did talk with someone (not Holthinrichs) who indicated the pre-announcement would be under $10k but the retail price would be over that. Not arguing, there's a lot of watchmaker time going into each one and the finishing will be great I'm sure 

But that's a pretty big threshold to go over. Will be interesting to see how that is received.

[TimeTexas]

Since more details. You can see how the floating lugs work. Will be interesting to see the effect in real life. They definitely assist to have a more significant downturn than the original models.

You can also see how the deconstructed dial works and fits together. Always there will be a lot of hours not only finishing each timepiece but also just assembling the sections of the dial.

Overall it looks incredible and unlike anything else out there. That's too be expected.

 

 

[TimeTexas]

The I study the lugs the more I like them. I love the originals but I think the way there are attached to be floating is going to make them even more eye-catching.

I think this is one of the coolest things allowed by the 3D printing. 

[Nakkdry]

14 hours ago, TimeTexas said:

Yeah, sounds like a lot of time spent to assemble it. Interested in seeing the price. I did talk with someone (not Holthinrichs) who indicated the pre-announcement would be under $10k but the retail price would be over that. Not arguing, there's a lot of watchmaker time going into each one and the finishing will be great I'm sure 

But that's a pretty big threshold to go over. Will be interesting to see how that is received.

Since every brand releases shit watch at 10k, the good ones can't cost less.. Not cool for the amateur but understandable. 

Titanium for this soon-to-be release! The previous was steel, isn't it ?

[TimeTexas]

There's definitely a lot of shit under $10k, but there's also some really quality ones like Dornbluth, and Habring² and Zeitwinkel. I think the work required to assemble this watch and also the finishing certainly justify a higher amount, but I do think there's a point where your price yourself out of what a lot of people are willing to pay. You also move up into another class of watch with different brands competing for customers. I think 8-10k is kind of a sweet spot for smaller independents where they are still accessible for most watch people interested in these types of watches. There's a balance to strike between maximizing the price and also making it reasonably available to know collectors. 

And I know the cost of everything had gone way up which also pushes process upwards. And they have a backlog of orders so they aren't hurting for business.

The previous models were steel but also available in other metals. A titanium would almost for away, it's already a very lightweight watch. I personally prefer a little more weight than titanium has.i like to feel that I'm wearing the watch and it just feels more premium. But I know that's a matter of opinion.

[TimeTexas]

So I've now seen the watch promotional materials that went out to previous owners yesterday. I'm sworn to secrecy, so I can't share pictures. Let me just say a few things. The case is unmistakably recognizable as Holthinrichs, as well as the lugs. All I can really say about everything else is Holy F'in Shit. Literally the words out of my mouth when I saw it. There really isn't any other watchmaker that I'm aware of pushing boundaries like Holthinrichs. Maybe someone like Kees Englebarts or Ondrej Berkus, Dervis Uhrenmanufacktur, Itay Noy, ot @f.rozon.

I'm sure there are others, but those are the ones that immediately came to mind.

 I've thought about this since I got the email yesterday. This will be a polarizing release. It is an enormous risk, but an incredibly exciting one and an indication that Holthinrichs is looking to move up market. It is also very clear that Michiel continues to be a bold innovator.

I anticipate there will be a lot of naysayers and negativity. It is a polarizing design. Holthinrichs was already not a brand for a casual collector, both from aesthetics and price. This watch is not an entry level piece by any stretch of the imagination. I look at this as a positive overall. Polarizing in my mind means you are doing something outside the norm, challenging peoples' comfort level, and challenging yourself to create something unique. Something that is tough to considering the long history of watchmaking. The price will also be a deterrent for many.

There will be 20 watches made in the first series. I don't know exactly what that means. Is this limited and then there will release a second series in 18 months. Is this going to be the one model for the foreseeable future or are they considering offering a more entry level timepiece that would be a replacement of the O1 and RO? I don't know the answers to these questions.

The watch is certainly aggressive compared to the earlier models, even the Lims/Prelims. The bracelet and strap make it clear this isn't a dressier watch but something sportier and casual. I didn't see a water resistance rating or anything like that, so I see it more as a casual watch. I hate to compare it to anything. It is incredibly light and thin, just like all Holthinrichs watches. But the design, especially of the bracelet and rubber strap, make it much more aggressive and sporty looking.

My personal opinion is that while the economy has been shaky the last year plus, this seems to really be impacting the hype watches that needed to reset, and then entry level pieces in the sub $15k price category where the people buying them are definitely affected by economic conditions. People shopping for watches at this price range are not slowing down as much - brands like Sarpaneva, Gronefeld, Moritz Grossman, Laurent Ferrier are not having trouble selling their watches. Clearly Holthinrichs wants to compete at this level of watch and not in the sub-$10k range they have occupied previously. At least based on this release. Again, 20 watches in 18 months is not a lot of watches, but they are extremely labor intensive, so I don't know if there is enough capacity to have a more entry-level timepiece. And that may be something they don't want to do. Gronefeld and MG and LF do not have "entry level" timepieces. And it can cheapen the overall brand. My personal opinion is that instead of inching their prices up year over year, they just ripped off the bandaid and jumped up market because that's where they want to be and their watches going forward will start at this new price point. That is completely my opinion and not based on any discussion with Holthinrichs.

One potential option in lieu of that is to use Michiel's other watch company, Delft Watch Works, in a similar manner as Sarpaneva uses SUF. Entry level pieces that are very nice but don't require a lot of hand assembly/finishing and provides an entry to the brand at affordable prices. That can be done without cheapening the Holthinrichs brand and allowing it to be completely focused on low production, extremely high quality watches.

I personally love the watch, at least in the photos I've seen. I'm a little uncertain how it will appear in the metal and with the bracelet/strap. In some ways it is still a somewhat small watch at 38.5mm and less than 7mm high without the crystal. The bracelet, imo, is amazingly integrated into the design and apparently has a quick release system built in. But the styling of the bracelet (which isn't like anything I've ever seen), is something I would expect to see on a larger sports/diving watch. So I look at the photos and I love it one time and then the next uncertainty creeps in. But the more I look at it, the more certain I am that it works.
 

Overall I'm excited by the watch and the direction Holthinrichs it is heading. I think Michiel and team are visionaries and they are committed to continuing to improving their processes and their skills, including adding manufacture movements. That said, it is certainly a significant reduction in availability and increase in cost that will risks alienating some current clients.

Thoughts?

I'll post some of the materials that were sent out along with photos after the official announcement.

[Nakkdry]

Really curious, Today should be the day 

 Thanks for your early thoughts Chris. Your opinion about that brand may be 100% correct!

 

[Nakkdry]

Saw it.

Don't like the compact open dial. The movement looks like it's too small like that. And the watch has enough stuff it doesn't need to have "open heart", imho.

Perfect with a full dial though. And that bracelet. Awesome.

40k so not for my wallet but it's nice to dream 

[TimeTexas]

On 5/30/2023 at 12:32 PM, Nakkdry said:

Saw it.

Don't like the compact open dial. The movement looks like it's too small like that. And the watch has enough stuff it doesn't need to have "open heart", imho.

Perfect with a full dial though. And that bracelet. Awesome.

40k so not for my wallet but it's nice to dream 

I can see that but that's not how it struck me. I like the open dial concept over a pure skeleton dial. I also think its consistent with the overall deconstructed theme. I was more concerned with the bracelet at first. It was clearly very interesting and by itself looked great. But the watch (and previous versions) are SO thin that I was worried it might look out of place on the watch in person. Having seen some screenshots, I think I'm sold on it. Just seemed from first appearances that it might be too substantial and thick based on the size of the thickness of the watch.

Working on a write-up now with more detailed thoughts.