TimeTexas

Claude Meylan @claudemeylan https://www.claudemeylan.ch/en/ Fenêtre sur le temps

New HYT in carbon fiber and bronze per Monochrome. @hytwatches https://www.hytwatches.com/

Urwerk Geneve UR-CC1 Cobra @urworkgeneve https://www.urwerk.com/

MB&F LM Split Escapement EVO @mbandf www.mbandf.com

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe @greubel.forsey https://www.greubelforsey.com/en

Some more

Czapek redheads two new lies in its Quai Des Bergues Ricochet line. #czapek www.czapek.com

Getting this started due ask the news and announcements over the next few days.

Very true. The purpose of this forum is to generally be supportive of independent watchmakers, but it shouldn't be a group think for positivity. I think honesty and candor is important. But I do hope that people think about how they approach criticism. It can be done in a positive way that promotes change, or it can be done negatively in a manner that doesn't promote change and only leads to defensiveness and entrenched opinions. It's one of my biggest concerns in moderating this board. Managing that discourse. Watches are emotional possessions, and especially so when talking about pieces that are in the tens of thousands of dollars. That emotion and passion is a wonderful thing but can also be a source of tension. In this case I think the discussion is absolutely warranted and should be out in the open. It just needs to remain honest and candid without being accusatory or demeaning.

Agreed, it seems the argument here is more over the use of the term "excellence" when that term should be reserved for only the truly excellent.

Yes it would. I'm glad I got the 40mm, but my wrist is 18cm. I'm extremely impressed with it. But I had my eye on the Salmon and Champagne originally. I just want sure about the 38mm size.

As a Moser Pioneer owner, and a huge fan of Moser in general, I always look forward to their new announcements with anticipation. It seems though, that Moser is generally moving up market and out of my price range. There's been nothing new announced on the Pioneer or Venture lines in over a year. The only announcement regarding the Endeavour was the release of the Lime Green Grand Feu enamel dial which raised the price of the Endeavour by $5k. They just discontinued their "affordable" Streamliner model, while releasing two others in the $60k range. Nothing new with the Heritage in a couple years either. I certainly understand Moser wanting to move upmarket. They have the technical chops to do it and the Meylan family running things. And I also know they consider the long-term value of their watches for collectors - so they limit production of models/colors. That said, they really seem to be ignoring the lower end of their range. With the added value provided at around the same price point as a secondary market Submariner (at least as of 6 months ago), it seems like an emphasis on the less expensive models would have paid off with an expanded customer base, some of whom would then potentially be future customers for the higher end pieces. Far from me to question the strategic decisions, but maybe someone else has some insight into the strategy. Or maybe I'm missing something. With current general market conditions worldwide, is focusing on higher end pieces the best strategy? Are the people in the market for a $50k+ watch still more likely to purchase a watch than the people at the lower end of the range?

Continuing on this discussion. While the angle itself can be a design decision, evenness from the jewel is much more an indication, imo, of the quality. From @velociphile.

A few photos from the website. https://www.hautlence.com/linear-series-1/

A few screen captures of the Hautulence Linear 1. Looks amazing and obviously had some incredible engineering to create the linear retrograde jumping hour indicator. Thoughts?

IG: @scaramanga__ made a post about properly executed bevels in combination with inward angles. @awatchcritic provided a response. I figure its worthy of discussion, so posting screenshots of the conversation (with permission from both) below. Where do you fall? I have to say I understand both points. But I think taking a hard line on This Good, This Bad probably over simplifies the issue and there is some element of artistry and design that could lead to the less symmetrical interior angle and beveling. And in some cases it may be due to limitations by the watchmaker, but not as an absolute. Art the end of the day, I believe people should buy what they want at the price they are willing to pay. And if it's beatiful and excellent to them and they feel they got the value they paid for, then who am I to argue or convince them otherwise. To each their own.

Quite honestly, I agree with this entire assessment. There are watches where I really like the visible tourbillon on the dial, but very few. I saw a Moser Heritage with and without the tourbillon and I preferred the non-tourbillon. Moser is known for its dials, so don't break up the dial. That said, the Pioneer Skeleton Tourbillon is fucking insane and I love it.

Yes, they did a recent partnership with Garrick. They are a UK-based brand with a long history, went bankrupt, then were revived by one of the founders relatives. They are on the lower end of independents - sub $5k. I have to say that I'm just blown away by it. This was just under $4k and it really is a fine looking watch. The raised indices, the sub brushed case, the lume, the textured dial. I like nearly all watches and love alot of watches. I have no hesitation in saying I LOVE this watch. I think the 38mm salmon and/or champagne that I was originally interested in would have been too small on my 7" wrist for my tastes. But I couldn't be happier.

So speaking a little with Anders Brandt (Arcanaut Founder), he has three (3) criteria that I think would likely separate 95% of microbrands and independents. 1) Are the watches supplied by an OEM Manufacturer in the East? 2) Is the price greater/less than $1,500 USD? 3) Do you make homages or take heavy design cues from other brands? I think those are a great starting point in drawing a line between microbrands and independents. Obviously there are exceptions to every rule, but asking those three questions first is a good place to start.

Made with 5N Red Gold and a dial made with VantaBlack, the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon. Following on from the all-steel version, H. Moser & Cie. is releasing a red gold Streamliner. The streamlined aesthetic of this ode to minimalism complements the complexity of the automatic movement and the materials chosen. In a striking play of contrasts, H. Moser & Cie. distils the essence of the tourbillon, the traditional Haute Horlogerie mechanism, combining it with Vantablack®, an innovative coating used in astrophysics and taken from the aeronautical industry. Minimalist, ultra-modern and timeless. What are your thoughts? I've never liked gold cases with black dials. While I know its a classic look, it does nothing for me. On first glance, I felt the same about the Streamliner Tourbillon, but as I've looked closer, I actually kind of like the red gold with the black dial. I've always loved the Streamliner case and bracelet design - something truly out there and different. And the more I see photos, the more I'm starting to come around on the black dial with the red gold.

It has become an increasingly blurred line. And I'm finding that out as I reach out and connect with more and more brands about joining the club. And honestly its not always cut and dry. I listened to the Arcanaut Records podcast earlier today and sounds like they might be addressing that issue in the next podcast. And I think that will be a very interesting discussion based on some of the conversation I've had with Anders (Arcanaut). They used to identify more as a microbrand, but increased craftsmanship and the overall business operations have led them to be more of an independent brand, imo. And they now identify as an independent brand. So they will have a unique perspective on the differences. I definitely welcome feedback especially from any of the watchmakers/brands and their feelings. This is a forum for them and there feedback would be invaluable. I am building a similar community for microbrands as well, but drawing that distinction may be tough in some instances.

Great article from Escapement Magazine about the collaboration between Schwarz Etienne and Kari Voutilainen and the development of this particular Limited Edition with Jeremy Oster. https://escapementmagazine.com/articles/oster-jewelers-x-schwarz-etienne-roma-synergy-by-kari-voutilainen.html Gorgeous and if you've never talked with Jeremy, give him a call. Great guy and extremely knowledgeable. I don't think these will last long. Oster Jewelers is 303-572-1111

Yeah, its incredible. I knew a lot about watches, but even this was a great learning experience and the interaction is fantastic.