Statera - Brazil's First Independent Watchmaker

[TimeTexas]

When you hear the term calculus, formulas and integrals and derivatives may be the first thing that goes through your head. It does for me, reliving long nights studying for tests. But calculus is also defined as a particular method or system of reasoning.

 

I've been blessed and honored to have the opportunity to meet and have extended discussions with many different watchmakers. Its part of what I love about small independent brands. You get a level of insight into not only the watchmaking process and the inspiration behind the watches,  but also the challenges of building and running a small business. For those watchmakers who have had success, certainly each have had their own calculus as to how to develop and build their watches and their brand.

 

Starting an independent watch company is incredibly dfificult even under the best of circumstances. Competition is stiff, not only because of the headwinds of being a single individual or small group taking on the large luxury conglomerates, but also due to the increasing number of watchmakers that are starting their own companies and even designers who are starting microbrands which compete for collector dollars. With global price increases creating additional strain on creating affordable timepieces, there is no easy path to success.

 

I recently had a chance to spend a couple hours talking with Rafael Guimarães with Statera Watches. Statera is the first independent watchmaker in Brazil. I first chatted with Rafael last year when I saw the Statera ST01 Calculus, their first watch. Classically styled, I was immediately interested first because it was a very attractive watch, second because my wife spent time in Brazil in her childhood and it seemed an unlikely spot to find a small watchmaker.

 

After spending some time talking with Rafael, i decided to purchase the ST01 Calculus. Unlike the Engiish definitions; however, in Portuguese, Calculus means balance. Obviously balance is an important component in watches, but also in life itself. As with many of us, Covid created an immense amount of uncertainty. The uncertainty of the future, and of life itself, prompted questions about ourselves, our lives, and our futures. We questioned whether or not we were doing something we loved. For Rafael and Antonio, who had been friends since childhood, the answer was no. Life. Balance.

 

And so the dream began and the friends began to develop a watch. This scene likely took place in hundreds of places around the world. And this would likely be a discussion of a new microbrand, except for the determination of Rafael and Antonio to move beyond design and actually learn the craft of watchmaking. They weren't content to simply design a watch and outsource the manufacture. Instead they started researching small independent watchmakers and reached out to Armand Billard (@sartorybillard) to get some advice.

 

If you've met and talked with Armand he it won't surprise you to know that he was incredibly helpful. Not only was he willing to talk, but also provide names of contacts and suppliers for cases, crystals, and hands to help Statera get started. After receiving the prototype, they had several family members and friends who were interested in having one of the watches. At this same time, Rafael also reached out to Ivan Padilha with Exame magazine. He was also very interested in what Statera was doing with ST01 Calculus and wrote an article about the first independent watchmaker in Brazil. 

 

Only one thing was missing...the watchmaking. And in Brazil, much more than Switzerland, that is certainly a case of being easier said than done. In Switzerland, an entire industry has been built to support watchmaking. Not so much in Brazil and, in fact, its even made more difficult by tariffs of 100% on imported goods. With the desire to sell its watches both in Brazil and around the world, a 100% tax is prohibitive to developing a reasonably affordable watch. Facing seemingly insurmountable challenges it would have been easy to simply eiether give up or to continue outsourcing development of the major components to suppliers in Switzerland. Instead, Rafael and Antonio undertook to find a way to develop the necessary components in Brazil. Rafael reached out to Angelique Chappuis, a watch engineer (Habillage in French). Angelique, who is half brazilizan and half swiss had worked for many well known brands incluidng Cartier Cartier, Swatch Group, and Tag Heuer. After hearing Statera's ambitions, she shared their vision and thoughts on creating a dress watch and wanted to give something back to Brazil. She is now a partner, helping with the design on the ST02. While the Calculus (and the ST01 Emerald which was released in August 2023)  is 41 mm the upcoming ST02 is 39mm and they are working on a 37mm model. More suitable for a dressier timepiece.

 

But a design isn't a watch and Statera still had no good option for manufacturing the elements of the watch. During my 2+ hour discussion with Rafael, he mentioned luck several times. But I didn't hear a lot of luck. I heard about a lot of hard work, a lot of not giving up, and a lot of perseverence and "finding a way". Sure, there were some people who helped out along the way, but only because Statera pursued those opportunities, reached out, and shared their vision. 

 

Unable to cost effectively import cases, Rafael began to search all over Brazil for a manufacturer for the cases for the ST02, but all of the machinists were booked. Finally, Rafael discovered the high import tax rate was helping support SENAI (Serviço Nacional de Aprendizagem Industria) whose purpose is to further technical education in pursuit of industrial revolution. As part of this effort, the institute has two locations, with one of those being in the same city as Statera, Maringa. In this case, it was a bit of luck, as that location had a 5-axis CNC that Statera was able to use to have the case bezels, mid-case, and case-back manufactured in Brazil.

 

Rafael then went to WOSTEP to learn finishing with the goal was to develop skillls to be able to finish the cases with polishing and finishing. At WOSTEP, he met Jose Berenguer  who became a good friend and they started a finishing laboratory and began finishing the cases for the upcoming ST02. But Statera didn't want to stop with the cases and wanted to be able to develop the dials in-house as well. Due to the cost of importing specialized machining equipment into Brazil, they decided enamel was the best way to do that. To make enamel dials they need only the enamel and the kiln, the most cost efficient way to make the dials in house. Although very difficult to learn and master.

 

So Statera bought enamel and copper and silver sheets and began practicing with the blanks - reading books on enameling to get started. Ultimately, they decided to take an enameling course from Naomi Nevill, a well known and highly skilled enamaler. After the course, they continued to practice and refine their enameling skills. As with learning any new skill, they experienced issues and challenges, and they would reach out to Naomi for assistance. They even set up weekly meetings to get advice as they continued to learn under her guidance. 

 

They also met Gabriel Colliard, one of the most well-known enamelers in the world. Gabriel is also from South America (Argentina) and they struck up a friendship and met in person in Geneva in 2023. Earlier this year, they traveled to Geneva and spent 3 days working on dials for the upcoming ST02. While working with Gabriel, they were able to learn the process of "Polito peso" or mirror finish. Many enamel dials on the market are glaze finished; however, mirror finishing is the next step and is significantly more difficult to achieve using specific chemicals and techniques. Gabriel is known for performing the mirror finished enamel dials for brands like Patek Philippe and Akrivia. António and Rafael are now apprentices for Gabriel and refining their enameling techniques and have even inspired Gabriel to develop his own timepiece.

While this ST01 Calculus was primarily constructed with outsourced components, it was the first step in Statera becoming the important first step in becoming the  first independent watchmaker in Brazil. While the proclamation by Ivan Padilha may have been slightly pre-mature, Statera has taken extraordinary measures to ensure the accuracy of that statement. With the release of the ST02, Statera will most definitely meet even the most stringent definition of independent watchmaker. And despite the challenges Statera has had to overcome, there is an incredible excitement and enthusiasm in Rafael's voice as he talks about how grateful he is for all of the people who have helped him along the way. And while he may chalk this help up to luck, it is anything but. It's a willingness to overcome, an ability to share a vision and make the effort to ensure that vision becomes reality.

 

It also highlights what is great about the independent watchmaking community so amazing. 

 

Enjoy these photos of the first step in the journey, the ST01 Calculus, and keep your eye out for the soon to be released ST02 which is scheduled to be announced soon.