Holthinrichs Deconstructed Initial Thoughts

[TimeTexas]

Deconstructed

Thoughts on the new release from Holthinrichs. Photos from Holthinrichs Release Info/Instagram

About 15 months ago I sat on a Zoom call with Michiel Holthinrichs and Damiaen Hogervorst. That call lasted nearly 3 hours and we discussed the watch I was interested in purchasing, as well as an idea I had about a dial I was interested in seeing if they would be able to create. Still waiting on that dial, but its clear that Michiel and team have been very busy. While on the Zoom, Michiel was visibly excited about a project they were working on and during a tour of the Atelier, he shared some quick looks at a deconstructed dial. It was a far cry from the current iteration, but it was obvious this was a new watch they were extremely excited about.

Now, 15 months later, I have a much better appreciation of their excitement as they shared that small piece of the watchmaking process with me.

Not that long ago, Michiel Holthinrichs was living in a one-bedroom studio apartment/watchmaking shop. A background in architect had turned to a fascination with a much smaller but even more complex form of design - watchmaking.

With inspiration from historical architectural stylings and a vintage Cyma, Michiel sought out a new technology - 3D printing - as the modern means to achieve his ambitious vision. Certainly watchmakers have increasingly relied on new technology over the years, but this was different. This was taking an emerging and untested technology and pushing the boundaries to achieve and create a process that could be used to make a stable, strong, and beautiful design with incredibly tight tolerances. It also allowed for the case to include a hollowed out side case, both reducing weight and also the partially hidden text.

The Deconstructed model was already on Michiel's mind as early as 2017, even if the vision was surely refined over the past several years. In hindsight, the Liminality and Pre-Liminality were precursors of what was to come. The open-work dial and even the sectionized dial (although machined into the dial instead of individual pieces) all were the early steps into the full deconstruction. The DNA from the Ornament 1 to the Raw Ornament to the Liminality/Pre-Liminality and now the Deconstructed is pure Holthinrichs. The thin, hollowed out profile of the 3D-printed dial, long skeletonized lugs with flowing curves, ultra-lightweight, and thin bezel to maximize dial area are all familiar. More on each of these features in a bit.

While the design of the watch and especially the bracelet has been the primary focus, probably the biggest change is the addition of a manufacture movement, the Caliber HM-M01. This is a monumental achievement for such a young brand. It is based on the gear-train layout of the Perseux 7001, a movement Holthinrichs was familiar with as the base movement for its Ornament and Liminality models. Pushing boundaries in design elements and tolerances, as well as a philosophy of an integral approach, it only makes sense to develop a movement. In partnership with dutch-based precision manufacturers, Michiel turned this dream into a reality. While the HM-M01 provides a relatively simple hours, minutes & subseconds, the flexibility provided in manufacturing their own movement is an significant step both for the Deconstructed, but also for the future. It's a big step for a brand obviously looking to move into a completely different realm of watchmaking. 

Both the Liminality and Pre-Liminality included openwork dials. This time though, the dial highlights the HM-M01 a movement that allows for additional flexibility both in the design and addition of complications, but also allows Holthinrichs to really highlight their excellent hand-finishing. Something they take great pride in.

Bridges, beveling, frosting, and Anglage, oh my! I'm still learning about the intricacies and movements and finishing and what it takes to go from good to excellent. I do know that Michiel and some of his team have attended the Phillipe Narbel Watchmaking Masterclass to refine their work and improve their capabilities. The movement appears to have a significant amount of interior angles and wide beveling.

Besides highlighting intricate workings of the movement however, the dial provides a dynamic nature all of its own. Broken down into 25 separate components with 3 different levels in a manner that is only possible due to the incredibly tight 3D-printing tolerances, it is something to behold. The inspiration for the dial came from Nature in the form of the rings of a tree trunk.

 

More than that, the shape naturally draws the eye to the movement. The layers themselves also serve a purpose as described in the Holthinrichs release.

The first layer consists of a carefully open-worked ring forming both the structural part of the dial, and a frame to exhibit the movement and some of its delicate parts. The second layer consists of twelve floating sectors that embrace 48 minute markers that protrude from the surface of the baseplate. In between these sectors the third layer is located, made out of 12 strongly pronounced and manually finished stainless steel baton shape markers to indicate the hours.

This 3-layer layour adds an entirely new 3D dimensionality to the watch despite its impressively thin profile.The concept of floating levels is almost antithetical to dial and watchmaking where the goal is to avoid gaps. On the Deconstructed they are included as an architectural element. 

Although the dial is remarkably different than earlier models, it remains intimately familiar and unmistakably Holthinrichs. The case itself is also similar to the previous Raw Ornament, with alternating Raw and brushed elements (as opposed to polished surfaces) providing incredible visual interest and help highlight both the bezel and the lugs. The effect is clearly meant to highlight each element individually as part of the deconstruction, while tying them all together. 

This contrast is similar to that found on the Raw Ornament, but I think even more successful and sporty looking, consistent with the overall look and feel of the watch.

This dramatic effect continues with the lugs which is another major change from the previous models. The Ornament 1 and Raw Ornament cases both sported incredibly dramatic, skeletonized, and flowing lugs. Honestly the lugs are one of my favorite features of Holthinrichs design. In the eariler models, the lugs distinctly integrated into the case by flowing into the top of the bezel, illustrated below.

Keeping with the theme of deconstruction; however, and now taking inspiration from human anatomy, the lugs appear nearly separate from the case. This is done in an incredibly interesting manner, again only allowed by the 3D-printing process. The lugs continue to maintain skeletonization with a distinct split that almost appears to be two separate elements but the the integration is now inspired by a ball and socket joint, like a pelvic bone.

 

The lugs are similarly designed to actually attach to the case within the partially hidden confines of the hollowed out side profile. A step down as it comes into view from the edge of the case provides a hard to describe feeling that the lugs are floating and dettached from the watch itself. There's not really a way to describe it, so here's a couple photographs.

The re-design and re-assembly of the case, dial, and lugs are themselves enough to warrant a new model. Then things get interesting. 

I have to admit that my first reaction when I saw the watch bracelet was an audible Holy Sh....well let's just say I was floored. To say there hasn't ever been anything like the bracelet (and to a lesser extent the strap) is an understatement. The first person I discussed it with said it reminded them of the old Oakley Watch bracelet. And while there's a bold industrial consistency there, I don't think that's an adequate comparison. The Oakley is bold and brash and designed for a much more aggressive watch. The bracelet on the Deconstructed is certainly aggressive, but despite its industrial look looks incredibly refined.

First, the bracelet is 3D-printed which is the first of a kind. Second, Michiel again took inspiration from nature. This time in the form of the scales of an alligator. Even more interesting than that is what I can only describe as a second set of lugs within the bracelet that mirror the actual lugs. The brushed finishing inextricably links those two elements and then flows into the "scales" which are also designated by brushed, thin, (and words fail me, so for lack of anything better) "center links." Really, only a much better writer than me could describe them aptly, so here's some photos.

Again, something this complex could really only be achieved through the 3D-printing process. The only comparison I can make is the bracelet is like that found on the Moser Streamliner, except on acid. It's a living and dynamic thing and its incredible, imo. Kudos to Holthinrichs for something so dynamic and unique. It's also my biggest concerns with the watch, as I'll address shortly.

The rubber strap, while less dramatic, also mimics the effect of the crocodile scales as well as contains the openwork element at the case, although without the brushed internal "lugs."

I chatted with Michiel very briefly after getting the pre-release info - they were understandably tired and incredibly busy preparing for the official release. He wanted to create something completely new and provocative. In that, the Deconstructed is already an incredible success. Whether it appeals to you or not has never been a more personal decision. It certainly isn't for everyone, or even most people, or even many people for that matter. Undeniably Holthinrichs, achingly familiar, and yet absolutely new and truly a New Craft in Watchmaking. Michiel has never played it safe and has incredibly grasped at stars out of his reach. Until they aren't. He's already gone from a very humble start to a places very few people in the world can achieve in less than 8 years. 

One of my favorite musicians, Ryan Adams, years ago penned a song called Firecracker. While the song is about love and not watchmaking, one of the verses stands out, "Well everybody wants to go forever, I just want to burn up hard and bright." I think that's definitely Michiel's mindset, although I don't think he has plans on burning up. But his ascendancy is certainly on a trajectory like a firecracker and he's burning bright.

And that doesn't come without risk. Obviously he's not averse to risk, continuing to push boundaries well before he became more well known in the independent watch world. But stopping production on your most popular models and releasing a challenging, provocative, and polarizing watch is the action of someone who burns bright. 

Personally I love the watch. I believe its an incredbile feat of engineering, design, and modern-techonology. It captures the essence of deconstruction, it captures the essence of Holthinrichs Watches, and it blends a variety of disparate parts into a harmonious whole. 

When I first saw it, I did have a few concerns. First, the bracelet, while absolute incredible, is a LOT to take in and in some ways I wonder if it overshadows from the watch itself. Not only that, it is difficult to tell in photos how such a substantial bracelet would fit on what is a relatively small and thin watch. Would it look like a natural extension of the timepiece, or something so different it would look out of place? Having now seen some wristshots, I think it works, but without seeing it in person, that's certainly still a concern.

The Crown, which looks great, also appears like it could be difficult to wind. Partially inset into the case profile, it is raw on the inside and brushed on the exterior. There are no ridges and the way it appears in photos appears that the circumferential joint between the raw and brushed surfaces has an edge which is parallel to the rotational direction. 

Having polished surfaces on the crowns on my Raw Ornament and Pre-Liminality, these can be somewhat difficult to wind. I think the raw interior portion of the crown on the Deconstructed will alleviate this potential issue as it is more tactile and easy to grip without your fingers slipping. That said, it is something to look at when handling the watch.

And finally, the elephant in the room, the price. Holthinrichs models (not highly customized) have sold for between $8-10k for the last few years. This is really a sweet spot for an introduction to high-end independent watchmaking with numerous very high quality brands offering exceptional value and wonderful timepieces in this range. It's also relatively crowded and becoming increasingly so. And I know Michiel has high aspirations to move beyond entry level which he has done so here and I anticipate will continue to do in the future. That said, this is a significant jump in price to about $38,000 USD. 

There's obviously a significant amount of time spent designing this watch and likely just as much designing the bracelet. Developing a new manufacture movement is a monumental step. Those things come at a price. There's also literally dozens of pieces to be assembled and finished on the dial alone and the movement is designed to highlight Holthinrichs exceptional finishing. Even developing the new binding process for the 3D printing to allow for the watch to even be made is a significant cost both in time and money. 

There's no doubt a significant price adjustment is not only expected but completely justified.

But the level of competition at that price increases significantly - Grönefeld, Moritz Grossman, Laurent Ferrier to name a few in a similar range. Is Holthinrichs at a point to command prices at that level?

I think certainly this watch will be able to command that and there's an incredible amount of work that has to go into making the Deconstructed. There are only 20 planned to be made and certainly there are enough current Holthinrichs customers that have the money to spend on something this unique and incredibly well executed. 

But looking longer-term, where does Holthinrichs the brand go? What is next? This price point sets extremely high expectations, not only for this watch but future models. And the competition is very high at this price level.

I'm certainly not betting against Michiel and the Holthinrichs team.

The Deconstructed is a defining timepiece for Holthinrichs. It defines and clarifies the direction the brand is headed. Like it or not, Michiel is not one to rest on his laurels and simply maintain the status quo. He is driven to be one of the top watchmakers in the world. Like a firecracker, he's headed skyward and burning bright. The results will be spectacular, even if like a New Years fireworks show, many of us have to watch from afar.

 

[TimeTexas]

I was able to have a conversation with Michiel and Damiaen last week regarding the Deconstructed and it was enlightening. This was an incredibly intensive process to develop the watch and the movement. The costs for development were extremely significant and an enormous risk for the company. Overall the watch seems to have been very well received - which was a huge relief for something so different. The brand, and Michiel in particular, take enormous pride in their finishing. Nearly every element of the watch the 3D-printed bracelet, and the movement include finishing by hand. Hence the price. Apparently the price, while an enormous jump, hasn't been received particularly negatively. I think that's because it does require so much hand finishing that people in a position to buy a watch at this price point realize that is where a large amount of the cost in high-end watches goes. Throw in the development of the manufacture movement which has been a 6-year journey, and the price doesn't seem so outrageous.

Also, I learned that the finishing on the Ornament 1 and the Raw Ornament takes about 85 hours which is double what was estimated it would take. With that level of time and cost invested in each piece, the decision to discontinue those models makes more sense. What also contributed to the decision, and something I think all Holthinrichs fans will be excited about, is that there is a new, more affordable model line in the works. Michiel showed me a sketch on the screen, but I don't have any shots to share. That said, if you remember back a few months, Holthinrichs had a few sketches on its IG feed and also had some stories asking followers to post their favorite cars. In fact, before the Deconstructed announcement, I guessed the new design would be influenced by classic cars. I was right, I just had the timing wrong.

It was originally anticipated this model would be announced as the replacement for the O1 and RO before the announcement of the Deconstructed, but the Deconstructed was actually ready first, so it was announced at the end of May. The new model, which will be the start of a new family will have extremely dramatic, rounded lugs, continuing the theme of the O1 and RO, but even moreso. From what I understand, the amount of finishing on the watch and the movement will be more minimal to keep Holthinrichs costs down and allow them to sell it at a price more in line with their previous models. However, I don't know what that price will be, just that it will be more of entry level than the Deconstructed. If I had to guess, it will be generally in line with the O1 and RO/Liminality Series. I think this is a great idea to maintain a more accessible watch. While Holthinrichs has certainly grown in popularity over the past few years, they still aren't a household name, even among relatively experienced independent collectors. It also sounded like this line would also be the launch pad for a new vertical and a haute horlogerie piece based on this design would also be available at some point in the future. I'm guessing quite a ways off since the focus is on the deconstructed. Its another stunning looking watch and still contains the Holthinrichs DNA although the sketch I saw was relatively minimal but it looks like the general case design is similar and the biggest change is in the lugs. The dial may offer some changes - I know from previous conversations that Holthinrichs likes to experiment with materials and colors and has a lot of one-off dials they have created, so maybe they have come across something new they will use for this watch. Regardless, expect news at Geneva Watch Days.

A few other notes:

About half of the Deconstructed have sold.

The rubber strap, which is 3D printed, will apparently be somewhat translucent - something they've recently discovered how to do. Sounds like it will be very cool.

The Liminality series was a stepping stone between the O1/RO and the Deconstructed - you can see the evolutionary step.

I think if the new model is successful, you will see Holthinrichs continue to grow as it more fully develops and implements a lower-priced base model and higher-priced haute horlogerie model within two different verticals. The releases staggered so that as one model vertical moves from the base to the higher-end piece, it will be replaced with a newer base model and the process will repeat. I also expect one off limited series as kind of a middle ground/evolutionary proof of concept similar to the Liminality. This is my takeaway on the plans going forward - nothing set in stone here.

Sounds like a trip to the US may happen at some point in the relatively near future. Not sure if that means this year or sometime early in 2024. I'll try get more information about this and keep everyone updated.

That's about all I recall right now, but I'll add later if I remember anything else about the conversation.

Thanks to Michiel and Damiaen for spending their time to chat with me. They represent everything I love about independent watchmaking and exemplify how much the personal relationship aspect can enhance the watch ownership experience.

[TimeTexas]

For those that don't know, I ordered a Deconstructed. Damiaen just reached out and it looks like they are making great progress. Here a few shots he sent.

The titanium case have been printed, as well as components of the bracelet. They have also received the new brushes from their CNC partner. They are beginning testing on those before beginning the finishing.