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There is a spirituality associated with time. An irreversible flow of existence and experiences, the sweep of life. Many people collect watches to mark specific moments in time, a constant reminder of a major life event, a wedding, birth of a child, graduation, or work accomplishment. But life itself is constantly revolving and swirling, our lives moving with a rhythm through the ebbs and flows of time. Instead of capturing a specific moment in time, Can Bayraktar started his watch manufacture, Dervish Uhrenmanufaktur to capture a very personal story. For English speakers Can's name is pronounced similar to Sean with a soft J sound at the beginning - J-ah-n. Inspiration for this story comes in the form of the dervish, a member of a Muslim religious order of monks hailing from the Ottoman Empire, present day Turkey. They are well known for their wild dancing of spinning and whirling around. This rhythmic whirling is done to achieve harmony with the orbiting cosmos. This harmony with the cosmos is Can's vision for his watches, with the sweep of the seconds representing the whirling dervish spinning around their own axis. Its a spiritual approach that is much more in line with the beautiful creativity of independent watchmaking than mass-produced watches from an assembly line. In a world where watches have increasingly become commodities to be bought and sold and many are seen as status symbols, this is a novel approach. And the watches reflect that spiritual outlook.This is the beauty of independent watchmaking, you aren't buying products, you are buying a person who has poured their heart, soul, love, passion, and an incredible amount of time. You are buying their vision of art and beauty encapsulated in a small timepiece you can enjoy every time you wear it. You are buying a small piece of their journey and their spirit. Can's journey began as a machine mechanic, manufacturing small parts in Pforzheim, Germany. He moved into jewelry repair, where he learned the art of watch repair. This sparked an interest and he began to design watches in 2016 and later decided to pursue it full-time in 2018 when he began to manufacture his unique designs. An avid fan of history, Can loves to travel and learn about history. The history and the stories he learns during his travels provide the inspiration behind his watches. The description provided for each watch doesn't just provide a list of the specs or iof the watch. It actually describes the reasoning behind the elements and what they are meant to represent. This is a wonderful approach and provides so much additional insight into the timepiece itself. Considering the complexity and details on each watch it is also wonderful to understand Can's reasoning and motivation. I love thoughtful and inspired design and Can's approach is both beautiful and driven by his own life and experiences and travels. Each watch gives you an opportunity to share in those experiences. Like life, watchmaking is a journey, and tastes evolve. It's fair to say that one's watch journey is shaped by their underlying reason for buying watches. Watches used to be primarily tools, valued for specific design elements, complications, and specifications needed to meet a particular use. Today, only a small portion of watches are purchased to be used as a tool. Sure, people still buy tool watches, but few use them for their intended purpose. Watches have increasingly become extensions of one's personality and the journey of their life. Can's watches likely aren't for someone early in their watch collecting journey. The designs are bold and somewhat ornate, meant to inspire reflection and evoke emotions. The stories behind each watch express the cultural signficance of his travels. Watches are a combination of vision, artistry, craftsmanship, design, and engineering. With his manufacturing background and training as a mechanic, Can fully understands the importance of ensuring the design translates into a manufacturing possibility. He works closely with clients to create personal designs within the general, incorporating bespoke elements to make each watch a one of a kind timepiece. An heirloom that marries Can's journey with the client's journey. After agreeing upon a design, Can then begins the manufacturing process, taking into account any bespoke changes agreed to during the design process. However, this is where the bespoke experience differs from many others. During the manufacturing process he allows his inspiration to influence the design and incorporates these into the watch while being mindful of the client's desires. In some way, the final timepiece is a merging of the client's journey and Can's journey. For this to be successful, Can and the client must have a good relationship and open communication is key. The development and creation of the watch becomes a journey they take together. This requires trust because the watch may differ in some ways from the design as Can's inspiration. But its through the process of getting to know the client that Can feels comfortable that he understands what they are looking for that he feels comfortable making these changes. But this is also why it Can's watches are not for everyone. They are for individuals looking for an individual piece that still captures Can's spirit and inspiration. As he continues to build his own watchmaking company, Can works full-time at a watch case manufacturing company. His desire to create his own timepieces came when he stumbled across Rainer Nienaber from Bünde / Germany who made YouTube videos discussing watchmaking. He was also inspired by other discussing watchmaking with other independent watchmakers. But the inspiration for the designs comes comes from a place much closer to his heart, his mom. His mother taught him to take notice of the things around him, to appreciate history and beauty and nature and art. To take notice of the things that make a place unique on their travels together. Even today during their travels, his "mum" still points things out and directs his attention to things that inspire him during their travels. Currently, and likely due to his Turkish heritage, many of his clients are from Turkey, but also many other in countries with limited watchmaking such as Australia, Russia, and Azerbaijan. And while his clients have varied collections with more well known brands, his hope is to continue to design and create beautiful watches for collectors looking for something more unique and personal. People whose watch collecting journey has veered into independent watchmaking, but even more importantly, for whom timepieces reflect a spirituality and harmony with the world we live in. We each have our own individual journey in this world, and watches are a beautiful reminder of the passage of time along that journey. Dervish Uhrenmanufaktur may not make tool watches in the typical sense, but they are tool watches. They are tool watches for the soul. Despite the language difference, it was an amazing discussion. Can's story is inspiring and it translates into beautiful timepieces. He has a wonderful outlook on life and is imminently enjoyable to get to know. His enthusiasm is contagious and you can certainly get a sense of the passion and commitment to creating something unique and personal. You can learn more about Can and Dervish Uhrenmanufaktur at https://dervish-uhrenmanufaktur.de/ and also read about the different timepieces and the inspiration behind them. You can keep up with his latest creations @@dervish_uhrenmanufaktur

Note from Sergey: Firstly, I want to thank Chris for this unique opportunity to share a little bit about myself and my journey in watchmaking. Chris believed in me, helped me always, and I really appreciate it. Where did your love of watches come from? Watches were not my childhood dream, I don't have any stories that guided me into watchmaking. About 15 years ago I got into collecting vintage watches, at one point there were so many that I didn't have time to maintain them, after that I sold most of the collection and kept only 1 Omega Seamaster from the late 50's which I completely restored. And one day I had the idea to make a watch for myself, in fact I challenged myself. At first I thought it wouldn't be hard to buy the movement and other parts and just assemble it, but I was wrong. I found myself in a different universe, changing my life radically. I know you talked about frustration with the legal/justice system being the reason you decided to leave the profession. But was it your plan to leave and become a watchmaker or did you decide to become a watchmaker after you had decided to leave being a judge? These thoughts were inseparable. For a long time I had been thinking of leaving my legal work, I had taken great joy in making wristwatches, I lost track of time, I couldn't stop and the decision came by itself. I have not regretted for a minute what I did, now I am doing what I love. The judge's colleagues discouraged me from leaving, saying that this was the highest status for a lawyer, that I would not find anything better, but I did not listen to them and began to master a completely new profession from the very beginning. Talk about your journey and the process of becoming a watchmaker. It's actually a very complicated path, it's like an Advent calendar, one window per day. I learned from my own mistakes, first I attended watchmakers' courses, learned the basics. I bought several movements, studied all the nuances, found international literature on watchmaking, instructions for assembling different movements. It is a very hard and long way to go. I spent a long time looking for a supplier of quality movements and a manufacturer of watch cases, drawing my own drawings of cases and hands. Today I make my own hands and dials, I order cases in Germany and France, and I participate in the design process. For example, I’m working on two watch models right now, and the challenge for me is that the dial base is 0.8 mm thick. with top pad 0.4 mm. It doesn’t fit in the standard case, so we had to increase the height of the case and the geometry of the hands by raising the hour and minute tribs. This thickness is necessary for precise and durable microwelding. And I got the help of micro-engineers who helped me to design and implement some projects, to get the best results. It’s hard for me to say which challenges were the hardest to overcome. I think everything is difficult, but it’s not easy and you have to overcome everything. Do you have anyone who works with you or are you doing everything on your own? It's hard to tell if I'm working alone or not. I often turn to different masters for help and advice. For example, to engineers, to masters of painting for the selection of shades, I ask you to share secrets. What inspires you as a watchmaker? I am very inspired by the work of independent watchmakers, their vision, way of implementation, and non-standard solutions. I am also inspired by unusual architectural solutions. With the help of specialists, I try to seek help from people who are far from watchmaking, since they do not think in patterns, do not know the rules and impose non-standard options. It's always so interesting. What do you want people to takeaway from your designs? I wish people would stop looking at the watch in a formulaic way. So that they stop looking for similarities with other models, so that they stop paying attention to the lack of mandatory elements in the design. The watch should be enjoyable. Fortress was a very distinctive in its design. The First Anniversary was a departure in case design, are you planning on using the new case design going forward for future models? Are you done with the Fortress series? The design of the new case turned out to be very successful, I am very happy with it. I plan to use it in new models, but this time they will be chrome instead of matte painted. With a diameter of 41 mm. it is very light and not bulky, fits perfectly on the wrist. I receive a lot of requests for the Fortress model, which unfortunately I could not fulfil due to the limited edition. Due to the great interest in this model, I plan to revive the Fortress by the end of this year, using a new case, new paint technology and new materials. Your distribution model has been somewhat unorthodox - you only release a very limited number of each series. Do you plan to continue that model going forward, or are you looking to increase production in future series? I plan to increase the limited editions from 3 to 10 pieces to meet the increased interest of collectors. I have chosen a different form of production, I first make the watches and only then offer them to collectors, eliminating the waiting time for production and without waiting lists. This form of work was chosen because of respect for the customers' time, so as not to keep them waiting for years. The Russian war in Ukraine has caused significant difficulties with the sanctions and Russian watchmakers not being able to sell watches outside of Russia. Do you see this as a challenge or as an opportunity to continue to refine your watchmaking and expand awareness of your watches so when the war ends you are in a better position to grow your business? It's actually a huge challenge to overcome every day. Purchasing Western equipment for production has become almost unaffordable due to double logistics, long delivery times, and double customs payments, as it is impossible to deliver or ship anything directly to Russia. I am a citizen of two countries, Russia and Armenia, which helps me to bypass sanctions, receive payments and send watches through Armenia, but all the costs have doubled, which of course is a big problem. I don't think anything will change much after the war is over. It is very sad when people who are far from war and politics are not able to interact with each other. But I really hope that the war will end soon and that this event will give my cause a new impetus. What's in store for the future? I have big plans to expand the range of models, a lot of ideas regarding the development of production. I am very happy to be working with the Swiss manufacture Jean Marc Fleury. He is an amazing person, with a great team of professionals, I am very excited about this collaboration as it is a big step for me. I hope to strengthen our co-operation and take our development to the next level, step by step. What other watchmakers are doing something that you enjoy or think is exciting? Хhevdet.Rexepi, Dervish Uhrenmanufaktur, James Lamb, Armand Billard, Vincent Calabrese, Felipe Pikullik, Michal (Molnar Fabry), Keaton Myrick, Florent Lecomte, Garrick Watchmakers, and many others. I really like their approach to watchmaking, design, attention to every detail, complications. I follow their work with great pleasure and try to learn something new from them every time. What they do is a completely different dimension, they think beyond watchmaking standards, which is beautiful in itself. A quick note: Thank you very much to Sergey for taking the time to respond to these questions in such detail. I know he is incredibly busy, but still finds the time to interact with clients and even help promote many great watch accounts on Instagram. He is an amazing individual and his watchmaking is new and exciting to see him progress. I urge you to follow him on Instagram at @sergeychutov and follow his journey.

I absolutely love this combination. @kollokium with @rsmwatchstrap two piece military canvas with distressed hardware.

Anyone able to see this vid?

20240828_175226.mp4

Two new custom-made straps from Howard (Veblenist). Due to the 19mm L2L I had these made specifically for the Hacko MkII. The original strap was a nice brown but I wanted something lighter. So which do you prefer?

Some shots of the Sergey Chutov First Anniversary.